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April 12

 

 

Bethany-beyond-the-Jordan and Hammath Ma'in

Today was without question the spiritual highlight of our trip. We left our hotel on the Dead Sea this morning for a short drive north to Bethany-beyond-the Jordan (that is, "the Bethany on the other side of the river relative to Jerusalem," and thus in modern Jordan). According to the Gospel of John and early Christian tradition, John the Baptist baptized Jesus at a point on the Jordan River where a spring flowed into it near Elijah's Hill (the traditional site from which Elijah ascended to heaven in the chariot of fire). Only in 1996, once the peace agreement was reached between Jordan and Israel, was it possible to begin archaeological field work. In the years since, a spring has been identified along with the remains of an early church. All the evidence points to this being the area where Jesus was baptized.

Because of geological changes over the past two thousand years, the course of the Jordan River has shifted considerably. We continued to a nearby point on the river where Revs. Cargal and Winsheimer led a service of renewal of baptismal vows. Everyone was invited to touch the waters of the Jordan River collected in a baptismal font at the site as a reminder of their own baptism and God's call on their lives. It was a very moving experience.

As we made our way back to the bus, we passed an overlook that provided a glimpse of what the Jordan river may have been like during the time of Jesus. The flat, arid, sandy valley floor erupts in a small band of green tamarisk trees, bulrushes, and other vegetation that provides habitat for a variety of birds and wildlife.

Once we left Bethany-beyond-the-Jordan, we returned to the hills of Moab and through the city of Madaba on our way to Hammath Ma'in (rescheduled from earlier in our itinerary). Omar arranged "Arabic take out" for our lunch that we picked up in Madaba. We had turkey sandwiches and falafel sandwiches; the shop Omar called ahead to arrange the bag lunches did not even have falafel on the menu, but the went and purchased from some where else just so we could have it. It was a light lunch, but still one of the very best we have had.

Finally we arrived at Hammath Ma'in. In this narrow valley, hot springs feed waterfalls that collect in pools below before the waters continue down into the Dead Sea only about a mile away. King Herod used to come to this place to soak in the hot water pools to ease the pain of his arthritis. But among our group, only Reverend Cargal and Woody Cunnigham were able to immerse themselves up to the shoulders because the water was so hot. Sherri Cargal and Rick Hawthorne were able to sit beneath the falls and let the water massage their backs. But no one else in the group progressed much beyond dipping a foot or their lower legs into the pool. The waterfalls and the colorful rocks shaded by the many minerals brought to the surface by the water made for some wonderful views.

It was then back to our hotel on the Dead Sea for one more evening of lounging in the swimming pools and enjoying a variety of spa treatments before continuing further to the north in the Jordan Valley tomorrow.

 

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