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April 11

 

 

Jordan Rift Valley, Lot's Cave and the Dead Sea

Today was a transit and relaxation day. We set out from Aqaba traveling north through the Araba Valley and ultimately down to the lowest point on earth, the shores of the Dead Sea. As we rode the bus, Omar talked to us about the geology of the region, the political system of Jordan, and a very diplomatic presentation of the reputation of America in the Middle East (both its strengths and liabilities). As always it was very informative.

There were only two sightseeing stops schedule for our journey. The first was the remains of a 5th-6th century Christian monastery known as "Lot's Cave." The site commemorates the story of Lot's flight from the destruction of  Sodom and Gomorrah and taking refuge in a cave above the village of Zoar (Genesis 19). The bus was able to take us about half way up the distance on the mountain side to the location of the church and monastery (and Faisi demonstrated the full extent of his driving skills in the process). From their it was up to us to "hoof" up the 300-plus stone stair steps (no donkeys here!).

The sanctuary had all the usual features of a Byzantine era church. The entrance was at the west (the door opening from the inside into Araba valley). The altar was at the east end, literally built into the mountain side. To either side of the altar there was the traditional apse, but here the left apse held the door to the cave where Lot was said, according to the tradition, to have taken shelter after the catastrophe (you can see the mouth of the cave just to the right of the far right short column in this picture. The monastery facilities were immediately south of the church and reached slightly further up the mountain.

Once safely back aboard the bus, Reverend Cargal delivered the day's devotional on the topic of the Lot's wife. Although often interpreted as a story about the dangers of "looking back," he pointed out that the very telling of the story is itself looking back. He suggested the probably with regard to Lot's wife was not her looking back in itself, but her unwillingness to let go of the past and move into the gracious future God held for her. Just a short time later we pulled off to the side of the highway to see a rock formation known as "Lot's Wife." The isolated column must stand some 20 feet high on its hill. Both from its size and from its location a number of miles north of Lot's Cave at Zoar, it was clear that this formation was nothing more than an ancient  tourist trap for pilgrims en route to the Sanctuary of Lot.

Just to the other side of the road was the waters of the Dead Sea. The salt deposits on the shoreline rocks gave dramatic evidence of the rapid rate of drop in the water level of the Dead Sea. So much water is being removed from its tributaries to provide for agriculture and the growing populations of Israel and Jordan that the level of the sea can no longer keep pace with the rate of evaporation.

Our destination for the evening was the Dead Sea Spa Hotel right on the shore of the Dead Sea. Everyone in the group was on their own to either enjoy the spa services, to float in the super-buoyant waters of the Dead Sea, swim in one of the hotels several pools (including one with a water slide), or to escape the heat with an afternoon nap in their rooms.

 

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Last modified: May 24, 2007