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April 10

 

 

Wadi Rum and Aqaba

Today we journeyed to the land made famous in the West by T. E. Lawrence, himself better known by the nickname, "Lawrence of Arabia." It was from among the Bedouin tribes of this region that Lawrence recruited fighters for an attack on the Ottoman Turk  fortress at Aqaba--the end of our journey for the day as well.

Omar used our travel time on the bus to fill us in on both Lawrence's involvement in the Arab Revolt and on Bedouin culture more generally. Ask us about all the intricacies of Bedouin coffee rituals with regard to engagements to marry and the resolving of manslaughter cases among Bedouin when you see us back home.

Once we reached Wadi Rum, we transferred from our bus into five small SUVs for our trip across the desert sands. But this desert is dotted with massive rock formations that have been thrust upward by geological activity.

At two points we left our vehicles to view petroglyphs that had been inscribed on the rocks by Bedouin and caravaners over the past 2,000 years. These markings served a variety of purposes, including the very important purpose of identifying water sources in the region. Omar referred to these glyphs on the bus as "graffiti"; when Reverend Cargal pointed out to him the connotations of that word in modern English, he changed it to "ancient graffiti." Unfortunately, Omar's description was not without appropriateness since some much more recent visitors to this area had left their marks as well.

To reach some of the most interesting of the glyphs it was necessary to climb back into a deep cleft in one of the jebels (mountains). There you could see writing and images of humans and animals dating back to the 1st century BCE as well as Islamic inscriptions from the 8th century of the CE.

Once we reached Aqaba the group again split up to find a variety of amusements for the remainder of the afternoon, from glass bottom boat tours over Aqaba's internationally famous coral reefs, to swimming at the hotel pool or at the Red Sea/Gulf of Aqaba beach, to walking among the shops in the merchant district just a block from our hotel. Tomorrow we begin making our return north for our two night stay on the Dead Sea.

 

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